Shoaling, Refraction and Diffraction in Waves

Abstract

This paper presented the phenomenon of shoaling, refraction and diff raction in near coastal areas. Most of us consider tsunamis as very tall waves, but the reality is their amplitude is quite small in ocean. In other words, the tsunamis get much taller as they approach the coastlines. We know this process as shoaling. The degree of destruction of tsunami waves depends on how high they shoal. The causes which create such waves are related to the fundamental characteristics of waves and their variations in deep and shallow Waters. Shoaling is not only related to tsunamis but generally happens when waves go from deep to shallow water, when the waves approach the continental shelf and specifi cally at the coastlines. Waves slow down and their high increased, fi nally shoaling occurs. Keywords: Ocean Waves, Tsunami, Shoaling, Refraction, Diff raction.

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